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2016 Bonny Doon Vin Gris de Cigare

Producer: Bonny Doon Vineyard
Country/Region: United States - California - Central Coast
Ratings:
WS
88

This wine is quite emblematic of the great sea change that has occurred at Bonny Doon Vineyard since the sell-off/ draw-down of the Ginormous Doonamath, whereby we have essayed a most sincere effort to make “quieter” wines in a more natural, less manipulated fashion. As such, this Vin Gris is made from bespoke grapes and is not a byproduct of red wine production, per se. We harvested at the appropriate ripeness level for its style. The essential principle here is that less is truly more. The wine does not overwhelm one with fruitybombasticity; it’s charms are seductively subtle. An extremely elegant and complex Vin Gris de Cigare.

The ’16 Vin Gris is a bit of a departure from recent vintages, somewhat deeper in color and definitely a bit fruitier than some, though the fruit is perhaps (at least at this stage) more of the dark and brooding variety, particularly suggestive of black currants, Damson plum and rosehips. In our modern world, one must never, ever, ever, make anything like a health claim for an alcoholic beverage.1 So, no, I’m not saying that the Vin Gris has a calmative effect on jangled nerves, nor that it creates an immense feeling of well-being almost immediately upon just scenting it, even before the first sip. (Though it does smell an awful lot like any of the sundry tisanes (tilleul, eglantine) that will definitely do you some good.) Its perfume is subtle, haunting, not vulgar or tawdry, like some of the louche rosés de la nuit. Enfin, this wine is all about elegance and restraint. Rosehips, cassis, fraises de bois, citrus rind, with a wonderfully austere stony finish.

2016 Bonny Doon Vin Gris de Cigare

Vintage: 2016
Grape Varietals: 49% Grenache, 19% Grenache Blanc, 13% Mourvèdre 12% Carignane, 4% Cinsaut and 3% Roussanne
ABV: 13.5%
Aging: No oak. Aged in neutral vessel for 2 months.
Serving Temp: 50-55°F
Closure: Stelvin(Screwcap)
Production: 21,200 cases

Wine Making Notes:

The Grenache for our Vin Gris came principally from the Alta Loma Vineyard, harvested at the appropriate maturity level for this elegant style of wine. The Mourvèdre came from Del Barba Vineyard in Contra Costa County. About 22% of the wine is composed of traditional white Rhône varieties in substantial part from the Beeswax Vineyard, adding a surprising richness and foundation. We also employed the practice of post-fermentation bâtonnage—the stirring or resuspension of yeast lees—to give the wine a certain creaminess of texture.

Varietal Blend: 49% Grenache, 19% Grenache Blanc, 13% Mourvèdre, 12% Carignane, 4% Cinsaut, 3% Roussanne
Appellation: Central Coast
Alcohol by Volume: 13.5%
TA: 6.3 g/L
pH: 3.47
Production: 21,200 cases


Pairings:

This wine just begs for oysters or stone crab.

Product Formats:

Item number Unit Units/Case Type UPC - bottle SCC - case SRP/Unit
C0EE459005RRS 750ml 12 Glass 7 84585 02254 0 1 07 84585 02254 7 $16.99